You often hear travellers’ talking about the best of Bali before you see it for yourself: golden beaches, nightlife, and sumptuous seaside resorts. Beyond the bedlam of tourists and must-see temples, however, lie a mystical heartland surrounded by active volcanoes and unexplored havens of bohemian lounging.
Serial traveller and former Bali resident Naz Rasmussen shares her greatest hits of the hottest ticket in Southeast Asia.
A bite-size history of Bali
The Island of Gods was catapulted into international recognition in the 1920s, when the Royal Dutch Steam Packet Company brought tourists to experience its local arts and crafts. Artists such as Charlie Chaplin and Miguel Covarrubias soon began surging to its shores, etching Bali’s image as a renowned hub of culture. More recently, it has become known for its vibrant startup scene, partly due to innovative co-working spaces like Hubud (“Hub-in-Ubud”), setting up shop to accommodate the influx 21st century explorers: the modern digital nomad.
Of the over 17,000 islands that make up Indonesia, Bali is one of the few that has managed to preserve its Hinduism when the rest of the country adopted Islam. In the 1970s, only two decades after Indonesia won its independence from the Dutch, the government began investing in Bali’s burgeoning tourism.
This, however, has not taken away from its authentic charms, and many visitors attribute the Balinese hospitality and laid back culture to what makes it such an accessible island. Tourism appears to meld seamlessly with the Balinese family life that revolves around daily Hindu practices, ceremonies, and dance rituals, such as the Legong.
Visting Bali
It’s worth thinking about what kind of experience you want before you plan your best of Bali trip. Is paragliding along coral-speckled beaches or waterfall rappelling in the northern jungles your cup of tea? Or maybe shopping and experimental haute cuisine in the edgy south is the holiday you are after? The good news is you have the benefit of Bali’s size (small) on your side and can experience most of its offerings over a couple of weeks.
Want to stay in affordable luxury and experience Balinese family life at the same time? You’re in luck as Bali’s main alternative to high-end hotels is the homestay. These family villas are often comparable to 3-star hotel experiences and offer more privacy if you are traveling as a family or group. They are also a way of experiencing local Bali and the family traditions up close.
The Chic and the Famous on the West Coast
Seminyak
Nestled on the west coast is the swanky town Seminyak, while just south you’ll find its more overcrowded counterpart, Kuta. Seminyak offers sophisticated dining, serving the latest in Western food fads, all presented alongside ultra-modern interior design. Its main restaurants and bars are lined up on one stretch, the Jalan Petitenget, making it easy for a one-day visit. It’s also where you’ll find the Potato Head beach club, one of Bali’s popular leisure landmarks. Affluent locals and tourists alike camp out in style here, sipping cocktails in the infinity pool or taking a plunge in the ocean. This is worth a splurge for a taste of beach club life.
Recommended accommodation: The Mesaribali Homestay (room rates start at £18 [300,000 IDR] per night)
Canggu
Canggu is to Bali what Brooklyn is, or has come to be, for New York: hip and artisanal. While Seminyak and Kuta can get a little rowdy and noise polluted, Canggu has an unassuming and laid-back surfer vibe. It’s harder to get around here, which is part of the reason it has stayed off the tourist trail – you’ll need a scooter, driver or rental car.
Set amid enchanting green rice fields that stretch as far as the eye can see, this town is known for its beginner-friendly waves found on Batu Bolong Beach. It has attracted its own niche of fashion photographers, tech developers, and lithe yogis all looking to let their hair down. For the hubbub of fellow travellers and locals alike, head to Berawa Beach, where you’ll find young Indonesian men lined up to teach you how to surf.
Recommended accommodation: Brekele Brawawa Beach House (room rates start at £15 [250,000 IDR] per night)
Find a room
For a more secluded and exclusive experience, you can venture to Kedungu Beach. When the sun sets, be sure to stop by Old Man’s (next to the beach) for a peak at what the lifestyle here is all about: beer pong, people-watching, and the salty ocean air. Open air shmoozing is best observed on Sundays at the creative community centre Deus Ex Machina, also the best live music venue on Sundays with a creative lineup of both local and international artists. The weekend culminates in dancing on a cliff at Sand Bar, set against a backdrop of spectacular three-meter-high waves crashing into the rocks.
Recommended accommodation: Kubu Kedungu (room rates start at £42 [697,000 IDR] per night)
Head north for nature
Many visitors to Bali don’t realise the extent to which magnificent nature spills out from the edges of its postcard image, and how accessible it is to experience. Waterfall lovers should head to Bali’s unique yet least visited wonder, the 35-metre Aling-Aling twin stream waterfall. The unusually gliding streams have created a natural water slide for fearless visitors to slide on. If you are not up for a road trip on your scooter, it is easy to arrange for a driver to take you here.
Trekkers and avid photographers may want to head to Mount Batur for a sunrise trek. Pickup and guides for this trek can be arranged from most hotels and homestays. You will be expected to wake up at 1am and the trek lasts around five hours from start to finish, culminating in a breathtaking sunrise with a view of Bali’s volcano, Mount Agung.
Recommended accommodation: Lakeside Cottages (room rates start at £21 [348,000 IDR] per night)
Eat, pray, and delve deep in Ubud
Visiting Ubud, Bali’s wealthiest town and heartland of artists and mystics, feels like stepping into a twilight zone. Despite its myriad of stores catering to the cliched “Eat, Pray, Love” tourist, there’s an earnest focus on wellbeing that leaves an indelible impression on visitors.
The draws are many: world-class yoga and therapeutic services, an impressive concentration of vegetarian gourmet cuisine, and a strong focus on innovative buildings and services. Award-winning coworking spaces have popped up in recent years to facilitate those who are inclined to stay in Ubud for the longer-term. Ubud even has its own jungle club hidden in the middle of the forest: Jungle Fish, great for a swim and getting lost in a book surrounded by beautiful tropical landscape.
Where to stay in Ubud
Built early in 2016, Bisma Eight is a minimalistic boutique hotel with an Ubudian DNA in its offerings. For a luxury experience on Ubud’s most sought-after address, this is the place to stay (room rates start at £165 [2,736,000 IDR] per night).
For mid-range accommodation look to the heart of Ubud, where you’ll find Merthaya 2 Bungalows, Ubud’s best-kept secret just five minutes’ walk from the famous Yoga Barn and organic eatery Kafe. This warm family-run homestay with a pool is almost always booked, so make sure to book in advance (room rates start at £22 [365,000 IDR] per night).
Eating in Ubud
For a relatively small city, Ubud really delivers on gastronomical delights. La Pacha Mama is Bali’s first vegetarian Mexican restaurant and the brainchild of award-winning architect Alexis Dornier. The open-air restaurant in Ubud’s artist village Penestanan, is covered with a canopy and pays homage to the famous Acapulco chair.
For another Ubud staple, head to Eco Swiss Cottages in the quaint Nyuh Kuning neighborhood. Here you can enjoy fresh organic greens from their own garden while lounging in bungalows around the pool. For Ubud’s most stunning view, head to the French-inspired bistro Elephant Café, perched atop the Campuhan Ridge where you can while away an afternoon.
Seasonality
Bali is an ever-evolving hub of activity. When you visit the island, be mindful of the fact that many locals’ livelihoods depend on tourism. Many new initiatives play a part in giving back to the community, and some of these are worth planning your trip around. Bali Spirit Festival is a cultural yoga festival that takes place around March every year. Ubud Readers and Writers Festival is South East Asia’s biggest human rights festival and takes place every October. If you’re a gourmand, the up and coming Ubud Food Festival in May certainly sounds appetising!
As for the dreaded rainy season: it’s not so bad in Bali. However, this is still the Tropics, so if rainy evenings are not your thing, then avoid January to April and October to November. Once you are in Bali – and once you see those fantastic rice terraces – it is entirely probable that you choose to stay for longer. If so, it’s important to be aware of the limited 30-day visa given to you upon arrival. To avoid any trouble with the authorities, make sure you ask immigration services which rules apply to your passport, should you want a visa extension.
